History
The Recoleta Cemetery has been compared to the Pére Lachaise of Paris, being one of the fundamental architectonic pieces in Buenos Aires. It represents the cornerstone of the Recoleta area of Barrio Norte, and a great example of its beauty. It has 4700 cripts, distributed in a map of squares and wide inner streets, setting up an area of 50.000 square meters. The Recoleta cemetery is an example of different architecture styles; many leaders of the Argentinean history are buried there, between exquisite statues, streets and works of art that seem to struggle between them for unique marvel and beauty. This makes the cemetery a excellent walk for tourists, especially because the freshness of this kind of an outdoor art gallery remains intact despite the fact that it is a cemetery. The entrance is made from neoclassic doors and high Greek columns. Its mausoleums are marked with the name of the family carved in their ornamental fronts, plus bronze plaques which indicate individual family members; such as in the case of many Argentinean presidents. In the beginning the Recoleta cemetery was a holy ground (1822) when the Argentinean government prohibited the inhumations in churches and convents, but authorizing at the same time the use of the terrains of the old farm of the Monastery of the Recoletos Monks. It was then called Cementerio del Norte (“Cemetery of the North”). It was a modest beginning until Torcuato de Alvear, first Buenos Aires Intendant, proposed a reconstruction, and so the inner streets were rebuild, the chapel expanded, and peristyle and ornamental front erected. This gave the whole area an emphasized French style (the remains of Torcuato de Alvear, along with his father’s, general Carlos de Alvear, and of its son, Marcelo Torcuato –president of Argentina- are buried there). The burial chamber of Eva Peron is the most visited site of the Recoleta Cemetery these days due to the large number of tourists visiting Buenos Aires. The crypt was made in an art deco style, with a bronze door decorated with leaves and flowers, fitted in pilasters and an exquisite ornamental front. A lighted laborer symbolizes eternal life. Another interesting corner of the Recoleta cemetery is the Mausoleum of Admiral Guillermo Brown, constructed as a circular column standing over a small temple in which lies the urn where the sailor rests. It is built upon the melted bronze coming from the canons of the battle ships he once commanded. Beside this urn there is a smaller wooden one, containing the remains of his daughter Elisa. In the side faces of this small temple there are plaques marked with drawings representing many sea episodes. The end of the column holds a Corinth Capital finishing with a representation of sails and antique ship caskets. The crypt of Manuel Dorrego stands as a pyramid with an entrance protected by an iron gate. Through this gate a marble urn is displayed. This crypt is placed in the main street of the cemetery, a few steps from the central Christ. Dorrego was once the governor of Buenos Aires. During his government the peace treaty with Brazil was signed. Juan Lavalle fought against him and, after being beaten, he was chased and executed. Juan Manuel de Rosas ordered that his remains were placed in the Recoleta cemetery in 1829. The crypt of Jose C. Paz family is ornamented by a black grain cubic pedestal were beautiful angels stand. One of the angels casts a falling woman, and the other points to the heavens as a symbol of eternity. Jose C. Paz was the right hand of General Mitre in Pavón Battle, and was an active member of the Autonomist Party. He founded the La Prensa herald, and afterwards become a congressman and a diplomatic representative in Paris and Madrid.
Recoleta Cemetery Trivia: The legend of the watchman phantom: In the year 1910 a cemetery employee commit suicide. His name was David Alleno, an Italian immigrant, whose job was to guard the cemetery at night. Apparently, this man deeply hoped to be buried in the Recoleta cemetery ever since he had begun working there, and so he made this wish come true. He saved money to buy himself a parcel inside the cemetery, constructed his own tomb, and even traveled to his native Geneva in Italy in search of a man that could properly carve his figure in marbel. When every detail was taken care of, he took his own life. Now… the night shift watchmen that have been working in the Recoleta cemetery these past years swear the existence of David Alleno’s ghost, it has never been seen but can be heard through the clinking of his keys at the exact time the phantom continues his rounds, night by night… every night.
Recommended book for Recoleta cemetery lovers: “Ciudad de Ángeles” (“City of Angels”), by Omar López Mato.
The address is Junín 1760. The cemetery is open every day from 8 am to 6 pm.
Guided tours: Free, on the last Sunday of each month, at 2:30 pm. Telephone: (54 11) 4803 1594.
Bus lines: 5, 10, 17, 37, 38, 39, 41, 59, 60, 61, 62, 67, 75, 92, 93, 95, 101, 102, 106, 108, 110, 124, 130, 152
